🌿 Folk Prescriptions

Social constraints imposed by feudal ethics confined ancient Chinese women to the lowest rung of society, where male superiority was nearly universal across all social strata. Yet, some palace women occasionally gave the impression of reversing cosmic order—of yin and yang being inverted. Did these women of unparalleled beauty truly surpass male emperors? Not at all. Even empresses lived like tigers beside their sovereigns—any misstep could bring sudden disaster. With countless concubines surrounding the emperor, even an empress aged and faded would risk neglect. Throughout history, deposed empresses or those banished to cold palaces were common occurrences. Thus, to win the emperor’s favor and secure her position, each dynasty's empress devoted extraordinary effort and attention to her beauty and skincare. The imperial physicians entrusted with preserving the empress’s youthful appearance understood this well, striving diligently to formulate specialized skincare products. Hence arose a peculiar phenomenon in Chinese imperial cosmetics: “female supremacy over males.” In the Yuan Dynasty’s imperial prescription collection *Yuyao Yuanfang*, two representative facial wash formulas stand out—one for the emperor, “Imperial Facial Wash,” and one for the empress, “Empress’s Facial Wash.” A careful comparison reveals that the Empress’s formula contains more ingredients and more refined herb pairings. The “Imperial Facial Wash” includes fifteen herbs, while the “Empress’s Facial Wash” removes ginger root (Gan Song) from the former and adds licorice root (Gan Cao), huōxiāng (Perilla), winter melon seed (Dongguazi), loofah (Si Gua), Du Lingling, Guang Lingling, Tu Gua Gen (Cucumber Root), brain powder (Bingpian, borneol), second layer of raw chestnut skin (Sheng Su Zi Di Er Pi), and Bai Fu Zi (White Attachment). Notably, the Empress’s formula replaces Huangming Gelatin (Huang Ming Jiao) with Ejiao (Donkey-hide Gelatin), which is striking. Although both Huangming Gelatin and Ejiao are derived from animal hides (cowhide, donkey hide) and serve as nourishing agents for blood and yin, Ejiao is known as the “best remedy for gynecological disorders” and “a woman’s sacred medicine.” When it comes to female tonification and beauty, Ejiao surpasses Huangming Gelatin. Moreover, the Empress’s formula significantly increases the proportion of moisturizing and aromatic herbs. The second layer of raw chestnut skin refers to the thin inner membrane of the chestnut shell. According to *Xinxiu Bencao* (Newly Revised Materia Medica), grinding this layer into powder and mixing with honey to apply on the face can smooth skin and remove wrinkles. Winter melon seeds, also known as white melon seeds, are said in *Bencao Tujing* (Illustrated Materia Medica) to improve complexion and luster whether taken internally or applied externally. Guang Lingling and Du Lingling are different varieties of Linglingxiang (Lingling Fragrance), which, when combined with borneol and perilla in the formula, enhance penetration and guide herbs deep into the body. Tu Gua Gen, loofah, and Bai Fu Zi promote blood circulation and relax meridians, helping to eliminate wrinkles and spots. Although the “Empress’s Facial Wash” performs slightly better than the “Imperial Facial Wash” in efficacy and has more refined formulation, both share similar primary functions: nourishing the complexion, moisturizing skin, removing spots and wrinkles, and cleansing the skin. Since both formulas were exclusively used by the emperor and empress, their prescriptions emphasize three key aspects: first, large quantities of qi-tonifying, blood-nourishing, and complexion-enhancing herbs such as Ejiao, Huangming Gelatin, glutinous rice flour, Zhu Shi (Elaeagnus), Bai Zhu (Atractylodes), Bai Hua Ling (White Flowered Polyporus), Dongguazi (Winter Melon Seed), and Gan Cao (Licorice). Second, abundant herbs promoting qi movement and blood activation for spot removal and wrinkle reduction, including Bai Zhi (White芷), Bai Lian (White Convolvulus), Bai Ji (White Agaric), Chuan Xiong (Szechwan Lovage), Bai Fu Zi (White Attachment), Xi Xin (Fine Ginger), and Hao Ben (Ligusticum). Third, extensive use of aromatic, penetrating herbs such as Chen Xiang (Agarwood), Bai Tan (Sandalwood), Gan Song (Ginger Root), Linglingxiang (Lingling Fragrance), Borneol, and Huo Xiang (Perilla). The formulation features unique combinations: glutinous rice flour strengthens the middle energizer and promotes tissue regeneration and skin moisture; Ejiao or Huangming Gelatin nourishes yin and blood, using “skin to nourish skin” to achieve dual tonification of qi and blood. Among qi-moving herbs, Xi Xin targets the upper part of the body, while Chuan Xiong excels at regulating blood flow—striving for balanced regulation of qi and blood. In skincare and therapeutic applications, combining “white” herbs with fragrant ones reflects ingenious design. “White” herbs are selected for their color, using whiteness to treat dark skin, removing blackness. The “Chai Qian Facial Wash” contains six whites (Bai Ji, Bai Lian, Bai Zheng, Bai Zhu, Bai Tan, Bai Fu Ling), while the “Empress’s Facial Wash” adds Bai Fu Zi and Bai Guazi (White Melon Seed), totaling eight whites. Aromatic herbs are chosen for their scent, using fragrance to move qi and carry drugs—especially crucial since both formulas are external preparations. The “Imperial Facial Wash” uses Agarwood, Ginger Root, and Sandalwood; the “Empress’s Facial Wash,” considering women’s natural preference for fragrance and the tendency of palace women to suffer from emotional stagnation leading to poor qi flow, adds Huo Xiang (Perilla), Du Lingling, Guang Lingling, and Borneol to enhance aroma. Imperial Facial Wash Formula (*Yuyao Yuanfang*): One jin (approx. 500g) glutinous rice (ground into powder), Huangming Gelatin (roasted into beads), half jin (approx. 250g) large soap pod (charred and peeled), one liang (approx. 30g) Bai Ji, one liang (approx. 30g) Bai Lian, two liang (approx. 60g) fresh fragrant white芷, one and a half liang (approx. 45g) Bai Zhu, half liang (approx. 15g) Agarwood, one liang (approx. 30g) Hao Ben (without bark), one liang (approx. 30g) Chuan Xiong (without bark), one liang (approx. 30g) Xi Xin (without soil and leaves), one liang (approx. 30g) Gan Song (without soil), one and a half liang (approx. 45g) Chuan Fu Ling, one and a half liang (approx. 45g) Bai Tan, three liang (approx. 90g) Chu Tao Er (newly harvested), all ground into fine powder, used daily for facial washing. Empress’s Facial Wash Formula (*Yuyao Yuanfang*): One liang each of Chuan Xiong, Xi Xin, Bai Fu Zi, Hao Ben, Huo Xiang, Dongguazi, and Chen Xiang; two liang of Mu Shan (not specified, possibly a typo for another herb); half jin (approx. 250g) Chu Tao; half liang (approx. 15g) Bai Zhu; four loofahs; two liang (approx. 60g) Gan Cao; half liang (approx. 15g) second layer of raw chestnut skin; two liang (approx. 60g) Du Lingling; one liang (approx. 30g) Guang Lingling; two liang (approx. 60g) Bai Ji; one and a half liang (approx. 45g) Bai Lian; one liang (approx. 30g) Tu Gua Gen; two liang (approx. 60g) Ejiao and Bai Zhi; two and a half qian (approx. 7.5g) Borneol; one liang (approx. 30g) soap pod powder; one and a half liang (approx. 45g) glutinous rice flour. All herbs ground into fine powder, used daily for facial washing. <Facial Washing>