🌿 Folk Prescriptions

Let’s start with skin physiology. Skin consists of epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous fat. The outermost layer of the epidermis is the stratum corneum. Due to its inherent water-absorption and barrier functions, along with natural moisturizing factors (amino acids, lactate salts, sugars) within the stratum corneum, the layer maintains a certain moisture level, keeping skin hydrated. Skin appearance correlates directly with stratum corneum hydration. Normal skin typically contains 10%–30% moisture, maintaining softness and elasticity. However, with aging, stratum corneum moisture decreases gradually. When moisture drops below 10%, dryness, tightness, roughness, and flaking appear. What causes moisture loss leading to dry, dull skin?
Generally, internal and external factors disrupting the skin's natural moisturizing balance include:
① Aging leads to skin deterioration, weakening moisturizing and barrier functions, reducing natural moisturizing factor levels;
② Dry, cold climates with low humidity, such as autumn and winter;
③ Certain skin conditions like psoriasis, ichthyosis;
④ Environmental and chemical factors, such as detergents (laundry detergent, soap, dishwashing liquid), organic solvents (alcohol), and prolonged exposure to air conditioning;
⑤ Diet and sleep habits, such as picky eating, insufficient water intake, insomnia;
⑥ Dry skin. Clearly, since skin constantly contacts the external environment, without protection, dehydration occurs to varying degrees, directly affecting appearance. Therefore, besides ensuring balanced nutrition to supply protein and vitamins, avoiding harmful external factors, and actively treating skin diseases, one should also use suitable moisturizing cosmetics as needed.
What Are Moisturizing Cosmetics?
Moisturizing cosmetics contain ingredients that maintain adequate hydration in the stratum corneum, restoring skin luster and elasticity. They mainly fall into three types: First, substances applied to the skin surface that strongly bind water, keeping the stratum corneum hydrated—called humectants. Common humectants include glycerin, urea, amino acids, lactic acid. Second, water-insoluble substances forming a lubricating film on the skin surface to seal in moisture, preventing water loss—called emollients or conditioners. Common ones include petrolatum, lanolin, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, wax esters, and various fats, oils, and waxes. Third, deep moisturizers that penetrate the epidermis even into the dermis, undergo biological processes, ultimately enhancing the stratum corneum’s water absorption and barrier functions, maintaining optimal moisture levels. Common ingredients include linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and various vitamins.
Who Doesn’t Need Moisturizing Cosmetics?
Not everyone needs moisturizing cosmetics. These cases can skip them: 1) Children and adolescents—whose stratum corneum contains abundant natural moisturizing factors, with moisture levels up to 30%. Children’s skin is naturally thin and delicate, easily irritated by chemicals; using cosmetics may backfire unless suffering from atopic dermatitis or during dry seasons. 2) Young people with normal or oily skin—due to active sebaceous and sweat glands, higher secretion, especially in spring and summer, increasing stratum corneum moisture—no need for moisturizers. 3) Those with acute skin inflammation should avoid them.
Of course, moisturizing cosmetics vary in ingredient, formulation, and concentration, leading to differing effectiveness. Some may offer no benefit, or even worsen dryness. Some effective moisturizers, when used at high concentrations, may draw water from the skin, causing dehydration and dryness. Some believe excess moisturizer can absorb moisture from the stratum corneum and release it into drier air—especially in winter.
How to Choose Moisturizing Cosmetics?
Ms. Yang enters the clinic, glowing with confidence, carrying a bag of cosmetics, immediately complaining: She spent hundreds of yuan buying a premium oil-based moisturizing skincare set—including moisturizing cleanser, moisturizing cream, and moisturizing hand cream—hoping to look younger, but instead, after use, her skin became drier, red, and developed acne. Cases like Ms. Yang’s are common. What caused this issue?
Actually, Ms. Yang has oily skin—originally no dryness sensation. Only after switching to a new skincare product did she feel dry and tight, so she assumed her skin was dehydrated and bought a high-end brand. The problem arose. We believe:
① Her dry, tight feeling wasn’t due to dehydration but because the original products were unsuitable;
② Her skin was already sensitive; using a full series of moisturizers added extra burden;
③ Choosing the wrong formula: oily skin using oil-based moisturizers blocked sebum secretion, causing clogged pores and acne.
To avoid such issues and achieve better results, choose moisturizing cosmetics based on individual, environmental, seasonal, and occupational needs—not blindly follow ads or trends. Oil-based moisturizers suit dry or normal skin in autumn/winter, children, elderly, and young adults with dry/normal skin, especially those exposed to chemicals or organic solvents, or working in air-conditioned environments. Water-based moisturizers suit spring/summer and those in polluted environments. Additionally, cosmetics should match personal preferences in appearance, color, scent, feel—light, non-greasy, non-sticky. Pay attention to expiration dates and allergens. Also follow general cosmetic usage guidelines.<Rousui>